The
Highs and Lows of Tea
Published on Indulge – the weekend supplement of the Nation
newspaper on 22nd July, 2007 Mount
Lavinia Hotel has its Governor’s High
tea on their terrace with its famous view and Cinnamon
Grand has its own high
tea every weekend in their cozy Tea
Lounge as do Title Tattle of Hilton Colombo
and as so many other hotels. However, the irony is that the
high
teas of all these hotels - without exception -
are a low
tea!
The history of high
teas and the low
teas- or rather the low
teas and the high
teas - came about because of a social butterfly.
When tea
permeated into the English society, the effect was remarkable.
Regardless of rank, class or society, all of England enthusiastically
took to drinking tea.
At the time, the English had only two main meals - breakfast
and a very heavy dinner, or rather the supper.
Anna the Duchess of Bedford, found the gap between these
two meals yawning and the heavy supper dreadful. Been the
social butterfly she was, she began to invite friends for
‘tea
and conversation’ in the late afternoon - around
five-ish. With tea
she served wafer-thin, crust-less cheese or cucumber sandwiches,
bite-sized cakes, scorns and crumpets, with fresh cream and
jam.
This trend quickly caught on and soon every household in
the upper crust of the English society were enjoying an additional
meal. As this tea
was taken was taken in the low part of the afternoon, this
meal came to be known as the ‘low
tea’. It is this
low tea that is now been served in our hotels as the ‘high’
tea!
The blue collars of the British society also came to imitate
the white collars. They however needed something much more
substantial than the flimsy fare of the low
tea cuisine. Thus, they had their afternoon teas
with the solid meal of roast beef, mashed potatoes, peas and
tea of
course. As this was the ‘high’ meal of the day
for the hard-working blue collars, this became the ‘high
tea’.
Of course, to serve the afternoon teas
in its correct term - low
tea - might not be that enticing, for who would
want to come for something ‘low’!!! Our hotels
may be thus forgiven for interchanging the low
teas with the high’
teas, for after all, what’s in a name, if the food
is delicious!
Now that the history ‘lesson’ is over, here’s
a tip to enjoy your so-called high, but really low
tea (but we’re really not bothered with all that
high’s and low’s now are we?!?) - if you
are a savory fan, and would be nibbling the cheese or cucumber
sandwiches or the other dozen or so savory morsels added on
by our very talented chefs, order a light, self-drinking tea
(or what we Sri Lankans call a plain tea)
such as a
Nuwara Eliya tea. Don’t even think of mixing your
Nuwara Eliya tea with milk and do give a miss to sugar
if you can, for this delicate brew can’t handle either
that well.
If you are biting into the sweet delights, then do try the
low-country Ruhuna
teas, which are strong and mixes well with milk and sugar
if you please. If you are trying a bit of everything, then
do go for a mid-country tea
such as Kandy
tea, which is great as a self-drinking tea,
but doesn’t grumble if you pour in milk.
Now remember, if you are having your tea
with milk, then it should be milk, which should be at room
temperature, first and then the hot tea.
It not only makes a fine cup of tea-
it’s also good etiquette!
On a final note on high
teas, Cinnamon
Grand should really have a ‘high coffee’ than
a ‘high
tea’ as the best coffees of Colombo
are served at their Coffee Stop, which almost excuses them
for their atrocious fruit juices. Barristers also serve a
variety of coffees - ranging from hot, cold, thick,
strong, bitter, sweet etc - but when it comes to strength
and quality, Coffee Stop tops the list!
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