‘Serendipity’ – to make fortunate
discoveries when least expected – coins
from Serendib, as Sri Lanka was once
known.
A ship anchors. Travel
weary crew staggers onto the shore and succumb
into an exhausted unconsciousness. They
are a curious sight. Half their head and beard
crown thick, lustrous, long strands of hair that
has been growing surely throughout their lives.
The other half sports a stubble of at most a few
months growth. One by one wakes
into consciousness. They take their bearings and
are about to explore the island – unaware
of the extraordinary adventure about to unravel
…
Vijaya was audacious. Spoiled by his royal lineage,
his dastardly behavior infuriated his King that
He had one side of Vijaya’s and his entourages’
hair and beard shaved and shipped this pretty
sight to the wind’s desire.
The winds brought the miscreants to the tiny island
at the tip of India – Sri Lanka. An island
inhabited since time immemorial with three sectors
of clever, skilled and beautiful people in perfect,
peaceful cohabitation.
Characteristically, Vijaya treacherously carved
a kingdom and ruled whilst warring with the natives.
It was his great grand-nephew, Pandukabhaya, who
unified the four factions and the great race,
the Sinhalese, was born. However, the practice
of Vijaya’s people recording their adventures
prevailed. Hence, the Mahavansa, the
bearer of the fortunes and trials of Sri Lanka
came into been.
Mahavansa, one
of the oldest historiographies in the world, reveal
a life rich with a culture strongly dominated
by Buddhism and agriculture. In the ancient world,
Sri Lanka was very much the alpha city with its
strong economic arm reaching right across the
globe. To every ancient civilization – Arabs,
Greeks, Romans, Chinese, Indians – Sri Lanka
was the destination of magical wonder. The magnificent
art in painting and stone-carvings, the vibrant
entertainment in dancing, music, drama and puppetry,
the intricate archeological remains, the agricultural
infrastructure that still sustain life are clues
to the tall, dark, brave, resplendent Sri Lankan
who walked down the centuries in Sri Lankan history.
Then, between the twilight of ancient chronicles
and dawn of contemporary history, petty politics
brought a tragic end to the pulsating life of
Sri Lanka. Sri Lanka was lost under the folds
of the growing British Empire. Even after shaking
the British shackles off in 1945; Sri Lanka remained
unremarkable in the world map – until it
was washed back to world’s attention by
the recent tsunami. Yet the world learnt only
of the catastrophe wrought on the island, without
ever discovering Sri Lanka.
Despite one sixtieth of India in size, Sri Lanka
is a traveler’s dream, may the dream be
of familiarity or exploring the unknown, adventure
or leisure, pampered in luxury or lost in wildlife,
serenity for romance or spoils for a boisterous
reunion. The island’s topography is diverse
and delightful. Within hours, surroundings change
from sun-kissed, sapphire-blue Indian Ocean fringing
golden sandy beaches to frosty mountains with
lush forests and frothy waterfalls to flat land
with magnificent wildlife.
The people of the land continue to weave color
and character. The simple life from fertile lands
pampers the Sri Lankan into a gentle and an uncomplicated
being. This, with deeply ingrained Buddhist traditions
makes the typical Sri Lankan a kind and tolerant
host.
In this paradise isle, made for holidays of
all sorts, beaches make a fine start to any holiday.
Apart from the usual pleasures offered by every
tropical beach, the Sri Lankan coastal region
is unique from one end to the other. The South
end, or ‘Down South’ as known, is
populated with Sun seekers. The fine sandy beaches
for tanning and the coastal reef for safe swimming
is half their story.
Portuguese and Dutch, as invaders, occupied mostly
the island’s southern regions and even today,
their influence lingers, especially in Negambo
and Galle. Negambo, or Little Rome, is
startling and energetic. In the morning, as fishermen
haul their catch impromptu fish-markets spring
in the beach. In the evening, streets buzz with
tourists popping from restaurants to pubs to cafes,
enjoying everything from fish and chips to chili-fried
prawns and rice.
Just before Galle is Ambalangoda – famous
for its mask carving and puppetry. Masked dancing
is an essential ancient ritual in devil exorcism,
as well as, just as puppetry, used to reenact
popular folklore, which is seriously good entertainment.
Galle, a quaint town within what once was a Portuguese
fort is today a cluster of boutique hotels and
exotic masks and bric-a-brac antique shops. The
typical Portuguese architecture makes the Portuguese
presence so real that one almost expects to meet
ironed clad, domed helmeted soldiers round the
corner.
At the southern-most tip, Dondra is the highest
Buddha statue and few kilometers beyond at Walasgala
is a blow hole that sprays a magnificent fountain.
The potential to suck in even people adds to the
excitement. The truly adventurous would steer
a safe distance and enjoy the scenery whilst sampling
fresh fried fish from village vendors.
The next stretch of the coast is for wildlife
lovers with the Bundala Sanctuary and the Yala
National Wildlife Park, where rare, indigenous
birds, beasts, flora and fauna resides. A visit
to Yala is not complete without a trip to Katharagama
– a religious focal point to both Buddhists
and Hindus with mesmerizing and gripping religious
ceremonies.
Arugam Bay in the east coast is the rage for international
surfing competitions and considered one of the
best Asian surfing turfs. The natural harbor of
Trincomalee or Trinco is almost the miniature
Sydney version. Apart from the scenic beauty,
and indeed the Trinco coast is most beautiful,
Trinco is famous for whale watching, hot springs,
the tragic Lover’s Leap and the
famous Hindu temple, Koneshwaran where
many plead bargains with Hindu Gods.
Anuradhapura is a journey back in time to the
most majestic of eras in >Sri Lankan history.
The first known kingdom of Sri Lanka, Anuradhapura
era elaborates well-designed cities with comprehensive
auyrveda hospitals, common burial grounds, efficient
wastage disposal systems, botanical gardens and
canals for trade ships to sail right into the
island. The magnificent temples that has been
defining the skyline for centuries and the vast
water tanks that still sustain agricultural life
brings credibility to the splendor Mahavamsa
details.
Polonnaruwa succeeds Anuradhapura in history and
as fascinating, if not more glorious it might
be, it is Sigiriya in Dambulla that astounds all.
Built in the backdrop of an intriguing tale, Sigiriya
is a fortress molded on a humungous rock. Complete
with a once formidable moat, water gardens that
still sprinkles water and beautiful paintings
Sigiriya is beyond imagination and one of World’s
eight wonders.
Apart from the historical monuments, Trinco to
Dambulla is enthralling for its simple thrills.
Makeshift shops huddle the roadside selling clay
pots of fresh buffalo curd, water melon, fresh
vegetables and fruits. Many a youngster earns
their pocket-money selling mouth-watering concoction
of half-ripe mango in salt and chili. In these
flat lands where wildlife thrives, fellow road-users
could easily be the graceful elephant, the lithe
leopard or even the tiny mongoose.
Kandy – the city in the hills – foxed
three European armies until treachery betrayed
country to the conniving British. Devoid of tourist
trappings, Kandy is filled with hidden delights
of good food, classic silverware, sensational
Kandyan dancing complete with fire caressing and
reverberating drum beating, ancient temples for
exploration, and mountains and rainforests for
trekking. Maligawa, Temple of the Tooth,
where Lord Buddha’s sacred Tooth Relic resides
is the city’s regal focal point.
Even time seems awed by Nuwara Eliya – a
kaleidoscope of vivid colors and crisp, clean
air. Green tea-bushes carpet entire mountains.
White mists twirl the peaks and race about the
slopes. Waterfalls seem crystal-like. Sunlight
reflects off the dew on brightly colored flowers
and the whole place sparkles as if sequined. Nuwara
Eliya must be a glimpse of heaven.
The Kandy-Colombo road is a journey in itself
with the famous Peradeniya Botanical Gardens –
Lord Mountbatten’s WWII headquarters, Pinnawela
– the elephant orphanage, spice gardens,
exquisite pottery and intricate woven handicrafts,
Robin Hood’s Sri Lankan counterpart, Saradial’s
hideout, the cashew village – almost every
passing bend, unfolding a new adventure.
Colombo, the commercial capital of Sri Lanka,
is a hive of activity, fantastic restaurants and
great shopping. Walk the streets for bargains
and investments of a lifetime. Galle Face Greens,
possibly the world’s best hawker joints
must be experienced. Facing the sea and harbor,
filled with all sorts of vendors selling from
future predictions, to spicy concoctions to all
kinds of ‘devels’, Galle Face Green
is exciting and fun. Pavements turn into art galleries
during weekends with exhibits of amateur artists’
master strokes.
End of most holidays is tinged with dread –
time before you know it, it is back to work and
routine. Holidays seem to disintegrate to almost
a passing fantasy. Yet, holidaying in Sri Lanka
attests a sanctuary to mind, life to spirit and
home to body. A holiday in Sri Lanka is the first
of many to come with friends to welcome, pamper
and restore you. With each visit more to explore
and never to tire. Sri Lanka, indeed the destination
of magical wonder!
