Special thanks to Ramli Mohamed for pictures and Jackson Anthony for coloring history with character
This is a jayabima (land of victory) where you will be well protected and instead of fleeing before your enemies you will put them to flight. The wise contemplator, Brahmana Senkada declared thus after witnessing a cobra suddenly facing the mongoose that was chasing it. Frightened by the sudden confrontation, the mongoose fled.
The wise contemplator, Brahmana Senkada declared thus after witnessing a cobra suddenly facing the mongoose that was chasing it. Frightened by the sudden confrontation, the mongoose fled.
Indeed throughout Sri Lanka’s long history, Kandy(city in the hills) was never militarily invaded. At an altitude of 488.6m, Kandy, situated in the central province, is a natural fortress surrounded by three mountain ranges: to east Udawattakele, with Hantana and Bahirawakanda on either side. Mahaveli, Sri Lanka’s longest river forms a triangular boundary, with forests and marshes fortifying the defenses. The lushness makes artificial irrigation unnecessary and self-sustainable. Thus, ancient Sinhalese kings, including young hero-king Dutugamunu (161 – 137BC), sought refuge here to re-strengthen against enemies.
Kandyan history, never volatile as majestic Rajarata (North-central) or vibrant Ruhunurata (South) precipitated into focus in 14th century after Kusumasana Devi – three-month heir to Kandyan throne was handed to the Portuguese (the occupiers of the coastal regions, especially the South and the West) for protection from King Rajasinghe I, who treacherously killed her father, Karaliyaddabandara. Baptized as Dona Catherina she grew up among the Portuguese who tutored her with their values, hoping via her to eventually control Kandy.
Konappu Bandara – a Sinhalese nobleman, who was also brought up by the Portuguese led the war against Kandy and ousted Rajasinghe I from Kandy. He then, fought Portuguese off Kandy, embraced Buddhism and as Vimala Dharma Suriya I crowned himself in 1592 as Kandyan dynasty’s first king. He further established himself politically by marrying Dona Catherina – now a breath-taking beauty, who fell in love with the dashing King.
He brought Lord Buddha’s Sacred Tooth from Delgamuwa Viharaya in Sabaragamuwa province and housed the Sacred Relic in an exquisite two-storied temple, Dalada Maligawa, built in his palatial grounds.
His successors too crushed the numerous Portuguese and Dutch assaults and protected the unique Sinhala-Buddhist civilization. His sixth successor did much for the Buddhist survival by inviting a Siam envoy in 1753 for Buddhist monks to obtain upasampada (higher ordination). This enabled monks to reorganize under a proper leadership and recognize Malwatu and Asgiri temples as leaders of all the Island’s worship places. He also introduced the Dalada Perehara, the great procession where Maligawa and the four devales of the three Gods and the Goddess – the Island’s protectors – pay homage to the Sacred Tooth.
This scintillating procession was originally conducted by only the four devales (Hindu temples) to thank the respective Gods for good harvest. This, conducted only in August, dominates each and every participant’s life. Perehara – composed of temples (and devales) coming under main temples under Maligawa is sustained by temple lands. First five days are within Maligawa. Next five, Kubal – a sedate procession and last five, Randoli, the finest procession where the Queen was carried in her palanquin proceed in the city.
Nilames (ministers of the temples) are elected for the honoree position of managing devales and processions. Their thuppottiya is an intricately-worked bejeweled square hat, jacket (white for Kubal; red for Randoli), and three 14m each wrap-a-rounds in white, gold and red. An ill-fitting hat irks Nilames more than the cumbersome thuppottiya! Thuppottiya costs around US $ 1,000.00 and only ancestral jewelry are worn.
Dancers lives closely with their village temples. Throughout the year, they participate in numerous processions to impress their chief dancer, who handpicks the dancers for Perehara. A dancer’s greatest prestige is participating in Perehara. Each dancing group has its own signature dance. The inexperienced precede the line with the most talented at the back, closer to their Nilame.
Elephants, belonging to both temples and individuals throughout the Island undergo comprehensive training before participating in Perehara. Starting with smaller processions, they are familiarized with the dancing, drumming and charcoal lanterns. Before leading them to Perehara they are bathed in lime, turmeric and water, treated with their favorite fruits and then decked with batik or velvet costumes with elaborate traditional designs worked in gold or silver thread with brass edgings. These costumes, donated to temples by devotees range between US $ 250.00 to US $ 1,000.00. The tusker carrying the Tooth never wears the same twice.
Fourth successor, Narendrasinha (1707 - 1739) married a Nayakkar (Indian) princess and by-passing ancient succession laws, crowned his brother-in-law instead of his son, brother or sister’s son. Though the resulting lineage embraced Buddhism and was great leaders, Nilames (ministers) merely tolerated but never accepted them. Last successor, Sri Vickrama Rajasingha (1798 - 1815) sensitive to his Nilames’ quiet antagonism manipulated each against the other to keep them from banding against him, and suffered dire consequences.
British the Island’s new invaders, knew from their Portuguese and Dutch predecessors that the mountains were impregnable. Sensing the brewing political agitation, they manipulated the King and Nilames assuring their support for one against the other. When they eventually supported His trusted Ahalepola Nilame, the alienated King became sadistically vengeful.
In 1815, they marched un-resisted into Kandy with Nilames, captured and exiled the King. People rejoiced their cruel king’s demise, not realizing the immense catastrophe their great culture and civilization now faced. In 1818, Nilames waged war against the British to eject the over-stayed rescuers. The British, faced with defeat resorted to the unconventional by burning paddy and killing the innocent. Nilames, horrified by this brutality surrendered and were immediately executed. Until 1948 Sri Lanka remained under the British.
Quiet and homely, residents cluster around the economic hub that buzzes a bazaar atmosphere. Life moves in a sedate hum. Away from tourist trappings, Kandy is filled with hidden thrills.
Passing exotic spice gardens, Pinnawela elephant orphanage, Mahaveli River, and the famous Peradeniya Botanical Gardens – Lord Mountbatten’s WWII headquarters, one is in Kandy. The last King, who recreated Kandy into a celestial city designed Maligawa’s parapet, Walakulu bemma as cloud-like walls. Diyareli bemma,the surrounding wall of Kandy Lake, Kiri-muhuda (milky-sea) is designed as a wave-swell. Kandy thus appears a city floating in the sky in the Lake’s reflection of Maligawa and Walakulu bemma
A unique introduction to this celestial city is to cruise Mahaweli River early morning with a fabulous champagne breakfast from Mahaweli Reach Hotel.
Explore the town on foot. When feet tires and stomach growls head to Dalada Vidiya – a street lined with cafés and bakeries. Scribble your wit in The Pub’s graffiti walls. Re-define ‘heaven’ at Delight, a corner-shop with spoils for your sweet-tooth. Hint: try alpe – a twisty, caramel stick found no where else. Share travel news with home at Koffeepot, the Internet café with real coffee and proper cakes.
Stroll around the Lake then walk up the woody hill, where sensation and wonder awaits. Just above the international cricket grounds, Asgiriya is YMBA, where sensational Kandyan dancing, fire caressing and vibrating drum beating is to be experienced. Continue uphill to Arthur Seat and be rewarded to the city’s most panoramic view.
After golf at the world-class Victoria Golf Course, stop at History and savor history with flavor. Walls grace photos of Sri Lankans from 1860 – 1960, an overlooked period of life in Sri Lanka. Hors-d’oeuvres of historical facts is served with fantastic food.
Add a bit of Kandy to your kitchen and join exciting hands-on culinary programs and cook one-on-one with the renowned chefs at Mahaweli Reach Hotel, Earls’ Regency and History.
Exploring Kandy’s ancient temples and trekking Kandy’s mountain regions and exploring the natural rainforests are a must.
Patronize where Royalty patronizes. Swarna & Sons handcrafts exquisite silverware. The establishments’ intricately designed silverware made wedding gifts for both Queen Elizabeth and Prince Charles. These silverwares, fit to impress a princess, as the delighted Princess Diana’s note of appreciation proves are worthwhile investments for generations to come.
Combine fantasy with a dignified Kandyan wedding, which are ceremonial, without been tediously long or loud. Magul Gedera, experienced weddings organizers, carefully tailor-makes very personalized ceremonies that are steeped in ancient traditions – very different to a Las Vegas wedding!
Conclude the Kandy adventure via the Kurunagalla route and drive through rubber and mixed-crop estates. Stop at The Heritage Centre to watch batik in creation and a fantastic 30-dish lunch. If the rare privilege to chat charming Ena de Silva, the proprietor, arises consider your Kandy trip absolutely complete. The reminiscing of this vivacious 82-year lady, having lived way before Independence summarizes this celestial city with an intriguing dimension.
