A fascinating detail in the history of different tea preparation, points Mr. Perera, is that until 19th century when tea cultivation spread beyond China, black tea so extensively enjoyed today was unaware of. Tea then was the unfermented, dried tealeaf that we now hold in esteem as green tea.
According to Mr. Perera, the qualities of the two teas are so different that many think that the two stem from two different trees. Not so, he explains. Leaves for both come from Camellia Sinensis, commonly known as ‘tea bushes’. Again, he explains, it is a misconception that tealeaves are from a bush. Camellia Sinensis is actually a tree, which is pruned into a bush in the process of cultivating for tea.
The difference between the distinct color and taste in the two lies in its process method. In green tea the leaf is only heat-treated, which therefore retains its green color. However, in black tea, the leaf is fermented, which turns it black. It is not clear why the tealeaf came to be fermented. Perhaps, Mr. Perera muses, it helped to preserve the tea, which was an important necessity in a time where lead times – that is, the time from plucking to sailing it halfway across the world – were very long.
These two are not the only two varieties available points out Mr. Perera. There is oolong tea, white tea and so on, but it is the black tea that is most popular. A main reason for this is that it was black tea that was first introduced to Europe. Another reason is that there are many variations of black tea and limitless ways a cup of black tea could be enjoyed.
The varieties of black tea largely depend on its location of cultivation and its leaf ‘grade’ notes Mr. Perera. The 4% of Sri Lanka land that holds tea estates spreads over Nuwara Eliya, Dimbula, Uva, Kandy, Matale and Ruhuna.
Nuwara
Eliya tea is grown at 6,200 feet above sea level. This
is a champagne-like light liquoring, delicately fragrant,
mellow tea, to be consumed with a dash of sugar. This is perfect
for ice lemon tea on a hot summer day.
Dimbula tea grows in the misty mountains at 5,500 feet above sea level. This bright, flavor-full tea has the suppleness of a Pinot Noir and best enjoyed with milk. March and April produces the best qualities. Uva Eastern slopes also produce tea like a Pinot Noir. Distinctly aromatic with its unique flavor is best when plucked in July.
Kandy tea estates are within 2,000 - 4,000 feet above sea
level and this is a thick, full bodied, strong cup. Matale
plantations borders Kandy and mingle with vast spice cultivations
produc ing a very strong, thick tea with a special character.
Both Kandy and Matale teas are compared to a good Shiraz.
Ruhunu tea grows from sea level to 2,000 feet. This has a special
characteristic of blackness and imparts a strong distinctive
taste. Often compared with the voluptuousness of a Cabernet
Sauvignon, this brews in the hardest water.
Though there are many grades, Mr. Perera introduced three main grades. Orange Pekoe is the whole leaf, well twisted and liquors into a delicate brew. Again this varies in taste according to district and elevation. Higher the elevation, a lighter liquoring is produced. Young Hyson Green Tea is a curly tealeaf made from unfermented, rolled green leaf producing the characteristic, mellow green cup, best with mildly spiced food. Gun Powder Green Tea is a small, pellet-like dark green tea prepared using the Chinese pan-heating process. This is a strong, distinct tea with a unique touch of smokiness.
Mr. Perera concludes that though there are many varieties, each with its own distinctiveness, all Ceylon teas excel above any other variety.
Read the next in series, The Morning Cuppa |
